So for example, if you're plastering a masonry wall, you could get away without bonding agent entirely, as long as you wet the wall first, if you plaster to a wall that's completely dry, the plaster will dry before it fully cures, from the masonry/whatever sucking out the water from the plaster. The purpose of a bonding agent is halfway as a secondary glue to literally glue the plaster to the wall, but also to stop suction from happening on a dry or porous surface. So beyond those components naturally bonding (ie, lime and gypsum) they really only can bond through suction or mechanical key. Plasters do not have their own glue or bonding agent built into them, they're just whatever parts gypsum, lime, sand, perlite, etc. Then use Easysand as your veneer, as being an unsanded "plaster" it's not really meant to go on beyond 1/8" or so per layer.īasically all joint compounds have their own glue component to them on some level, including Durabond, Easysand, and All Purpose/premix. I find for large things to fill or big repairs simply using Structolite or if it's not available some other sanded plaster with aggregate, as it tolerates being put on thicker than Easysand does, is stronger, due to the aggregate allows itself to be flattened/leveled out better, either screeded or troweled down. In UK and Australia some people even use it before painting as a cheap clear primer, similarly to Gardz.įor big repairs I find joint compound is not very ideal, even though Kirk likes to use it a lot because it can set off quicker and he can be in and out of a job faster. To apply it, too, is very easy as it's essentially the same thickness/etc of Gardz, and penetrates like Gardz. I think a downside to using a paint primer is if a surface isn't stable, and you have a typical latex primer that you simply slap over an unstable surface or a surface with a possible moisture problem under the surface you run the risk of it peeling in sheets under the plaster, whereas using only PVA glue it doesn't really dry in a sheet of latex/acrylic goop, and integrates directly into the plaster itself. Stuff like wallpaper glue even with PVA glue on it can still be a bond breaker or cause PH wonkiness. ![]() ![]() If a surface is extremely dirty or covered in wallpaper glue or something, sealing it with a paint primer and then using PVA glue is probably best, though. I've followed his advice quite a lot with my own things and found the Quikrete Bonding agent really pretty great. I've never seen him seal anything with painting primer. Generally his advice on all repairs is to use PVA glue (in UK terms as a generic) as in, Plaster Weld or Quikrete Concrete bonding agent to seal the wall first, and then he generally uses Easysand for most of his repairs. ![]() He's a complete wealth of information on plaster. I've learned most plaster repair stuff from Kirk Giordano on Youtube.
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